इडली Nirvana

My two lunches at Sarvana Bhavan-CP, and an interesting piece read on the Chain & its founder by NYT, all in quick succession this month, allowed me to go back to an old conversation on Facebook.
A conversation that almost made me conclude that there was a niche segment of vegetarian food erotica that was waiting to assert itself through its pioneer in me . Alas, the foodasm did not last long enough & the committment was almost forgotten in not time.

Until ofocourse the opportunity presented itself as an Idli Lunch Opportunity with my esteemed Senior Mr TV Ramachandran (providentially followed by another one the following week). While we discussed our respective memories of lunching in working class "tiffin" joints in Triplicane & rest of Chennai, I could not help going back to one of my most treasured conversations on the subject on Facebook (And long before Facebook really became fasionable!).

Here's to TVR ; & to JPS and Sanjeev with whom I enjoyed a couple of memorable idli meals last month who let me be by encouraging me to eat ghee-idlis in my favorite finger-lickin' way.

Reposting my ~5 year old note - Not much has changed since I first posted this though Sarvana Bhavan now predictably assumes the pole position amongst many worthy finalists, and Ratna Cafe (Chennai) deserves a hall-of-fame mention to correct the inexplicable miss the last time around.

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This is inspired by a chance discussion on the Facebook on something seemingly mundane. Mundane, unless you are wired to savor the flavor of every bite - as Subrat said during (the third course of) this discussion - “using all five senses”.

This blog, in the fitness of things, is dedicated to Subrat Padhi and Anjum Kapoor who were my co-travelers on this gratifying trip down the Idly alley. And of-course, to Shalini (my wife) whose experiments in cookery has kept me alive in more ways than one.......and to the finger-lickingly good idli-platter served at Banana Leaf - Andheri (W).......and finally, to the traditional variety served at Ramakrishna Lunch Home, near Southern Avenue - Kolkata.

How should Idlis be eaten was the question posed by Subrat to his Facebook friends.

We discovered over a couple of days of intense Face-booking, that there was no singular conclusion that could survive the heterodoxy of perspectives floating on this philosophically loaded question. And like all profound inquiries, this one too, (Anjum - I now completely realize), could inspire powerful arguments, forceful debates, fanatical reactions, syrupy verses, and sensuous expressions.


Here's taking the journey forward with "My 5 favourite Paths to Idli Nirvana" - in random order.

1.Separate (Sambar in a bowl, Idlis on your plate and a spoon & fork in your hands)

As Anjum passionately wrote on Subrat’s Wall – How should idlis be eaten ? “Definitely separately. How else will you get to experience the contrasts in textures , colors and tastes…the pristine sponginess of the idlis..the tart and peppery silkiness of the sambar ...and plop ...the heavenly coming together of both on your parched palate ...” . Thanks, Anjum for your prosaic brilliance. That in itself made many of us drool. And yes, we agree when you say that “food can inspire poetry and passion.”

Personally, to me this is Idli eaten "pan-cake style”. A popular, socially safe (and an emotion-deficient), cosmopolitan way of consuming idlis. Allows you to sit in an restaurant without embarrassing your spouse and kids (if you have a 9 year old, and an image-conscious spouse you will know what I mean!)

2.Soaked in sambar (eaten with a spoon, often like a “soup” with dumplings)

Popular in many old-school joints. A few commentators on Subrat’s wall concluded that this was the best way.

Idlis soaked in piping hot sambar served in a soup-bowl kind of dish or a regular plate (depending on the viscosity of sambar) – is a great way to have idlis, when hard pressed for time. Pre-soaking, allows sambar to permeate into the core of the fluffy idlis and fill the air bubbles with hot liquid.

The eater gets a taste of spicy sambar intertwined with the soggy solidity of idlis!!

(From memory, Behror mid-way restaurant (Delhi-Jaipur highway) used to serve it this way before they went for an unfortunate makeover)

3.Cocktail Idlis

Stir fried, small pieces of idlis (served as a cocktail snack) with minimum oil, mustard seeds, curry leaves, finely chopped onions, green chillies, salt and a hint of turmeric. The traditional coconut chutney serves as a great dip. A better option than deep fried snacks and calorie-abundant wafers to go-around with the drinks. A very convenient city-avatar of the white magic, but not the real McCoy. Makes for an excellent cocktail snack / starter / appetizer / antipasti / farsaan / chakhna without too much of grease. Looks good too. You can either get mini idlis or cut large idlis into 6-8 pieces.

4.Fried Idli Chaat (Inspired by the famous Dilli ki Aloo Chat.)

You cut idlis vertically like thick finger chips, deep fry like the guys on Delhi streets fry potatoes. Leave it alone for a few minutes for the excess oil to drip off ; add chat masala, spicy dhania / pudina Chutney & Sweet Tamarind Chutney. Toss it up and serve with a sprinkling of chaat masala if you like. Worth doing once in a while, but not a classic.

5.And finally - Blended, Crushed, Mashed, Pulped, Pulverized, Pounded, ….call it anything……this - by any name, will taste heavenly..

My plea to Subrat was to do the Idlis my way. Here’s straight from my heart on the FB wall :

“Crush the soft steaming discs of white magic on a plate like Rajasthani Daal Baati Choorma. Add a spoonful of Desi Ghee. Have lava hot sambar poured over it..Use your deft fingers to caress the "choorma” till every molecule of idli, merges its identity with sambar. (Ghee playing the lubricant that eases the friction of two egos sacrificing their individuality, to unite as one supreme being)..

Spoon-scooped morsels of idli eaten like pancakes-with-maple-syrup can give you joy. But the hot, greasy and gooey mass eaten with fingers will grant you nirvana.

My plate of Idlis must represent a melting pot of diversity - where the sum is larger the parts added. Not a bowl of salad - where elements coldly co-exist - each awaiting personal glory from the gourmet.”

Facebook confession of my favorite style of enjoying an idli-meal may have cost me a few invites that could have potentially caused serious social embarrassment to the hosts. However it did earn me an honorable mention by Anjum on Subrat's Wall for what was termed as “exquisitely sensual finger play".

Thank you guys !! It was great fun !!

PS : My son, a foodie himself, is quite a disappointment when it comes to idlis!! He loves his portions mildly hot with cheese spread and tomato ketchup.